Stefan Wahlen, Bärbel Mahr, Gunnar Vittersø, Hanne Torjusen, Mattia Andreola & Sabina Kuraj (2026)
International Journal of Sociology of Agriculture and Food, 32(1), pp. 283-300. Open access.
Abstract. This paper examines how highly invested food consumers in in Italy, Germany and Norway navigate the tensions between cultural food traditions and environmental sustainability. Drawing on French conventions theory and focus group discussions, we examine how these consumers justify their food choices in light of biocultural diversity – understood as the interplay between food traditions, ecological concerns, and the use of natural resources. Our analysis reveals three primary justification frameworks, or ‘worlds of worth’: the Domestic World, which is grounded in tradition and trust-based relationships with producers; the Green World, which focuses on ecological responsibility; and the Inspired World, which prioritises creativity and personal fulfilment. While these worlds often coexist in everyday food practices, they also generate conflicts, for example between ethical ideals and convenience, or sustainability and cultural heritage. Italian participants in our study emphasised domestic and convivial food traditions, Germans expressed a strong commitment to creative and waste-conscious eating, and Norwegians balanced ecological awareness with self-sufficiency and national food identity. Our findings demonstrate that food choices are not shaped by fixed national cultures, but by context-dependent justifications reflecting multiple, and sometimes conflicting, values. We conclude by emphasising the importance of acknowledging these tensions in order to better integrate cultural and environmental priorities in sustainable food systems.
Extract: “This paper explores the connections between eating culturally specific foods and the natural world. A particular focus is on how engaged eaters justify their food at critical moments in the relationship between cultural conventions and natural resources. We draw on the work of Boltanski and Thévenot (2006/1991) to examine critical moments of justification, or the ’conventions’ that shape social interactions, economic institutions and the governance of food systems. Their theory of conventions provides a valuable analytical framework for studying the complex and ever-changing relationships between social norms, cultural values, economic practices, and the use of natural resources within food systems (Ponte 2016). It allows for an examination of the relationship between cultural norms related to ’good food’ and the broader issue of biodiversity and natural resource use. The theory is also relevant for understanding how conventions evolve over time, leading to different modes of coordination between food chain actors and collective expectations about food quality. We analyse data from focus groups with engaged eaters involved in food initiatives, to compare the cultural conventions of eating in Italy, Norway and Germany, and how these engaged eaters reflect broader concerns about natural resources and biodiversity. This enables us to compare tensions and conflicts in consumer conventions around ‘good food’, and to explore how these conventions shape and are shaped by the biological realities of food production. For example, while traditional meals in many European countries are culturally specific and often centred around meat, recent dietary trends such as the Planetary Health Diet challenge these conventions by promoting plant-based diets. Such changes in dietary habits may also be reflected in a shift towards increased cultivation of vegetables and legumes as alternative sources of proteins.” (p. 284)
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